What is it about winning prizes that makes grown men and women transform into giddy kids? At Tidewater Women’s Meet-and-Greet last Thursday at the d’ART Center, I had assembled an impressive array of door prizes to give away to my guests: two gift certificates for a 90-minute massage at Wells Therapeutics, two $100 gift certificates for dinner at Aberdeen Barn, two pairs of tickets to Lyric Opera’s Carmen, and three yummy one-pound boxes of Royal Chocolate.

As our guests lined up holding their ticket stubs in hand, I called out numbers, and winners practically shouted for joy as their numbers were called. Not everyone won a prize, unfortunately, but everyone enjoyed the thrilling suspense.

This was our first Meet-and-Greet in a while, a chance for Peter and me—along with TW’s sales staff: Ronnie, Kittie, and Lynne-Hope—to enjoy face time with our loyal advertisers. TW writers were also invited, but only Dr. Jim Carraway showed up, dapper and springlike in his seersucker jacket. It was great to see all the advertisers who showed up as well. Check out the photo gallery and see who was there!

Guests browsed through the d’ART Center’s galleries and enjoyed viewing some fabulous local art. Others enjoyed the spread of hors d’oeuvres—smoked salmon, crab dip, cheese and crackers, veggies, chips and hummus, and my personal favorite—peanut M&Ms. Wine and conversation flowed, and everyone remarked on what a nice gathering it was.

In fact, I got the best prize of all: knowing that everyone who came to TW’s Meet-and-Greet enjoyed being together, sharing ideas, and making new friends. We’ll plan another event soon. Hope to see you there!

P.S. My thanks to D’Arcy Weiss, d’ART Center’s marketing director, for her help in making the event happen.

I stood in front of the Buddha statue at the Art Institute of Chicago and learned something new and profound, something that resonated deep within.

“Aha,” I thought to myself. “Now I understand the Buddha’s message.” I don’t think I would have gotten the message if I hadn’t been in a new environment, a place where my senses were sharpened, my mind open to new thoughts and experiences.

That’s why I love to travel. While wandering down an unfamiliar street or exploring a museum, I might learn a new fact or feel a connection to another time or place. Suddenly I have an “aha” moment, and I understand the world—or myself—a little better.

Back in front of the Buddha, I contemplated his blissful expression and wondered if I would ever find the right path. Then I read on the exhibit placard that the Buddha’s mudra or gesture—his lifted hand with palm facing outward—means “Fear not.” I smiled to myself after reading it. I needed to hear that message at just that moment. It was as if someone were telling me not to be afraid to move forward, to be patient and the path would open up before me.

That message came during a recent solo visit to Chicago. I was there to attend a writer’s conference, but truthfully I needed some “me” time. I wanted to get lost in a big city, and Chicago is the perfect place to do it. Don’t get me wrong: Chicago is amazingly easy to navigate. Just figure out where Lake Michigan is, and you’ll know where you are.

What I mean is Chicago is the perfect place to have a big city experience on your own. Shopping, museums, restaurants, and nightlife abound. On top of that, the city is safe and clean, and its public transportation system is efficient and easy to use. And even though I left my family behind in order to enjoy some “me” time, I planned to look up a few friends while I was in town so I was in no danger of getting lonely. Whether I was strolling along the city streets alone or hanging out with my pals, Chicago was exactly where I needed to be.

FUN, FUNKY DIVES

One friend I planned to connect with in Chicago was a writer I met nine years ago at another conference in Alabama. Amy lived in Cape Cod at the time and had since moved to Florida, Utah, and finally Chicago, her hometown. We hadn’t set eyes on each other since 2003, and I was a little nervous about reconnecting with her again after all these years, but I needn’t have worried. The instant I saw her I felt the natural kinship we’d experienced in Alabama.

Amy picked me up at my hotel after a long day of seminars, and we headed to the Northside for dinner at a trendy restaurant called Ceres’ Table, which specializes in Italian fare. I loved the trendy, sleek décor and knew Amy and I were in for a treat. After being seated at a cozy booth, we ordered yummy cocktails: a Blackened Cosmo for me (peppery with hints of clove) and the Pear Bay for Amy (pear liqueur with a touch of bayleaf). For an appetizer, we couldn’t resist the fried risotto balls with braised goat, which we devoured. For entrées we ordered the duck leg confit served with duck sausage and lentils (wow!) and the Snake River sturgeon with braised baby fennel (double wow!). But our favorite was the side of carmelized Brussel sprouts with balsamic vinegar and parmesan cheese. Cheers to Ceres, the ancient goddess of the harvest, and to Ceres’ Table for a lovely Italian feast.

All during dinner we never stopped talking about everything imaginable. Amy, who’s single and doesn’t have kids, was nevertheless all ears as I chatted on about my family and career. She shared her adventures during the previous nine years as she moved from place to place and job to job, taking an extended break to spend time with her dad after her mom died. Amy and I talked as if we were possessed, and in a way we were. It was like we each had a chance to define a decade of our existence, then place it into a context, and try to make sense of it all. After a few drinks, however, we didn’t worry too much about what made sense anymore. It just felt great to be hanging out and enjoying each other’s company in such a wonderful city.

The night was young so Amy and I headed over to Green Mill, a jazz club frequented by Al Capone in the 20s. It’s a funky place, stuck in a time warp, but well worth a visit for its big band sound and historic ambiance. In fact, our waitress confided that she prefers to visit Chicago’s funky dives when she goes out. “They’re much more interesting,” she said, “and fun!” Amy wanted to show me another favorite hangout, the Hopleaf, where we ended up chatting ‘til midnight.

I was happy to be dropped off  at my hotel, the Essex Inn, conveniently located on Michigan Avenue. Perfect for families, it features a rooftop pool, as well as a fitness center and sauna. I loved my corner suite, which was spacious and offered a million-dollar view of Lake Michigan, Grant Park, the Navy Pier, Field Museum, Shedd Aquarium, and Adler Planetarium. One morning I did some yoga poses overlooking the peaceful vista of sea and sky.

By contrast, the writing conference was a zoo. There were nearly 11,000 writers shuttling back and forth between Hilton Chicago and the Palmer Hilton, attending seminars, drinking Starbucks, and scribbling notes on how to write the next great American masterpiece. I learned a lot and enjoyed being in the company of other writers, but I was always glad when it was time to leave the hordes of conference-goers behind and disappear onto the city sidewalks.

One night I took in a show all by myself. I hopped on the metro and headed to the Briar Street Theatre on the Northside to see Blue Man Group, a multimedia show that is dazzling crowds in big cities across the U.S. A snow flurry fell as I hurried along the city streets, worrying about being late for the performance. Luckily I was right on time and joined the noisy crowd of mostly young people for a very entertaining evening.

What is Blue Man Group? Well, a clue can be found in the quote displayed on stage, “When meeting people from a foreign culture, offer a few gifts that reflect your interests as a gesture of friendship. Better yet, give things you’ve created yourself.… Ultimately, the best way to forge a lasting friendship is to create something together. Whether it’s a meal, an art project, or a spontaneous dance party, when you create something with others, you build a connection that lasts a lifetime.” That quote set the stage for a wild evening of disco music—think “Shake Your Booty”; interactive art; marshmallows and Captain Crunch; huge, floating orbs; toilet paper streamers; and music festival moves. It’s a feel-good show, and there’s even a message mixed in with all the madness. I loved it!

INVENTIONS & INNOVATIONS

Saturday morning after one final seminar at the conference, I hopped on a bus to the Chicago History Museum by Lincoln Park. It’s a great place to learn about the history of Chicago, its many cultural groups, musical roots, and historic disasters. I enjoyed the exhibit called “Second to None,” which highlighted the myriad inventions and innovations that began in the city—birth control pills, social reform, and products like Wrigley’s gum, Lincoln Logs, and Morton salt, for example. The Chicago History Museum also offers walking and trolley tours with a variety of themes.

Back on the bus, I headed downtown to meet my cousin Don and his wife, Val, at Rockit Bar & Grill for a Bloody Mary brunch. I’d dined at Rockit’s while visiting Chicago on a girlfriend getaway a couple years ago and remembered the amazing Bloody Mary bar with dozens of AYCE garnishes (shrimp, olives, cold cuts, cheese, peppers, capers, roasted garlic….), and it was just as tasty as I remembered. I hadn’t seen Don in years, and we had fun catching up in spite of a rather loud singer crooning in the background. Don and Val live in a neighborhood a couple miles to the west, and when I raved about Chicago, Don wrinkled up his nose and said he rarely leaves his neighborhood. “It has everything I need,” he said. I was glad he and Val made the trek downtown to have lunch with me. Next time I’m in town, I plan to venture out into Chicago’s many diverse neighborhoods to see what they’re like.

Sunday was my last day, and I packed it full. First I walked to the Adler Planetarium from my hotel, where I met a woman whom I’d interviewed via email about a stargazing story I was writing for another magazine. Audrey Fischer, a native Chicagoan, impressed me so much with her passion for the night sky, I knew I had to meet her, and Adler Planetarium was the perfect venue. The building itself—on the edge of Lake Michigan—is stunning: a 12-sided polygon made of rainbow granite from Minnesota with a copper dome. Founded in 1930, it was America’s first planetarium and houses one of the finest collections of astronomical artifacts.

Audrey and I immediately headed to the Grainger Sky Theater, one of three theaters at the Adler, for the newest show, Deep Space Adventure, an amazing encounter with outer space. Afterwards Audrey showed me an exhibit dedicated to reclaiming the night sky, which she inspired. Audrey is founder of the Global Star Park Network, which encourages cities and municipalities to reduce light pollution to allow for optimal night sky viewing. The exhibit shows how light pollution affects our ability to view stars and shows examples of lighting fixtures that are night-sky friendly. I’m a big fan of stargazing, so meeting Audrey inspires me to get more involved in this issue. (You can, too. Visit www.onestar-awb.org.)

My next stop was Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry, where my former yoga teacher, Michele, joined me—along with her twin four-year-old daughters. Michele was my first yoga teacher and moved to Illinois last year, so I was thrilled to see her again. Her daughters, Miley and Elena, were an added bonus. We careened all over MOSI, looking at exhibits about the human body, stormy weather, farm innovations, and more. The girls loved the Idea Factory, a kids’ area with waterplay, plastic balls, and Rube Goldberg-type machines. The museum closed at 4 p.m., which seemed way too early, so we found a Starbucks in a cute neighborhood nearby and hunkered down for some girl talk. Miley and Elena took turns sitting in my lap and commemorating our meeting with a digital camera. I told Michele later I was in pink heaven and realized how much I need to have a girlie-fix every now and then—especially since I live in a house with three guys.

AN ODE TO LIVING WELL

A quick bus ride and I was back downtown scurrying through another flurry to meet Amy at Custom House Tavern, a restaurant recommended by a friend. I actually didn’t mind the cold weather in Chicago. I was bundled up well with a scarf and mittens, and the stinging feeling of cold wind on my face made me feel alive. OK, maybe if I lived in Chicago for an entire winter I wouldn’t be loving it so much, but for a few days, it was a nice change of pace. Actually, that’s what traveling is about, isn’t it? A chance to change your pace, to slow down and look around, to take in new sights, renew old friendships, and live in the moment.

I sat at the bar sipping a nice Malbec when Amy walked up with a happy smile on her face. We immediately started gabbing again and pretty much talked our way through dinner, a long, drawn-out affair, the kind of meal that lingers like a poem in your memory. Taking your time while dining is something people have forgotten how to do, I think. They need to remember that it’s about savoring the flavors, the moment, the person you’re with. The evening becomes an ode to living well when you take your time, and the Custom House Tavern proved to be the perfect place to enjoy a culinary experience of epic proportions.

Our appetizers served as a prelude for a stellar meal. Amy and I shared grilled octopus with a touch of Old Bay aioli and fennel— tender and perfectly cooked—as well as a handmade pork sausage, plump and juicy, served with a yummy cranberry mustard. For our entrée we wisely shared a 20-ounce dry-aged all-natural rib eye, which had the most exquisite flavor, served on a bed of braised short rib hash with cauliflower and fingerling potatoes. We had to try the roasted beet risotto featuring walnuts and ricotta cheese, which was amazing, and a potato boulangerie with potatoes, carmelized onions, and bacon—sinfully good. Dessert—no way. We were so full, but very happy.

That day I’d enjoyed the company of five extraordinary females, and I truly felt blessed. As I walked home, I thought about the value of friendship and how it helps us put our lives in perspective. I looked up and saw the pedestrian traffic sign: a red hand telling me to stop. I remembered the Buddha, smiled, and waited, knowing that this adventure in Chicago was part of my journey, and the experiences and lessons I learned here would deepen and grow and merge in time. n

For more information, visit Explorechicago.org.

I stood in front of the Buddha statue at the Art Institute of Chicago and learned something new and profound, something that resonated deep within.

“Aha,” I thought to myself. “Now I understand the Buddha’s message.” I don’t think I would have gotten the message if I hadn’t been in a new environment, a place where my senses were sharpened, my mind open to new thoughts and experiences.

That’s why I love to travel. While wandering down an unfamiliar street or exploring a museum, I might learn a new fact or feel a connection to another time or place. Suddenly I have an “aha” moment, and I understand the world—or myself—a little better.

Back in front of the Buddha, I contemplated his blissful expression and wondered if I would ever find the right path. Then I read on the exhibit placard that the Buddha’s mudra or gesture—his lifted hand with palm facing outward—means “Fear not.” I smiled to myself after reading it. I needed to hear that message at just that moment. It was as if someone were telling me not to be afraid to move forward, to be patient and the path would open up before me.

That message came during a recent solo visit to Chicago. I was there to attend a writer’s conference, but truthfully I needed some “me” time. I wanted to get lost in a big city, and Chicago is the perfect place to do it. Don’t get me wrong: Chicago is amazingly easy to navigate. Just figure out where Lake Michigan is, and you’ll know where you are.

What I mean is Chicago is the perfect place to have a big city experience on your own. Shopping, museums, restaurants, and nightlife abound. On top of that, the city is safe and clean, and its public transportation system is efficient and easy to use. And even though I left my family behind in order to enjoy some “me” time, I planned to look up a few friends while I was in town so I was in no danger of getting lonely. Whether I was strolling along the city streets alone or hanging out with my pals, Chicago was exactly where I needed to be.

FUN, FUNKY DIVES

One friend I planned to connect with in Chicago was a writer I met nine years ago at another conference in Alabama. Amy lived in Cape Cod at the time and had since moved to Florida, Utah, and finally Chicago, her hometown. We hadn’t set eyes on each other since 2003, and I was a little nervous about reconnecting with her again after all these years, but I needn’t have worried. The instant I saw her I felt the natural kinship we’d experienced in Alabama.

Amy picked me up at my hotel after a long day of seminars, and we headed to the Northside for dinner at a trendy restaurant called Ceres’ Table, which specializes in Italian fare. I loved the trendy, sleek décor and knew Amy and I were in for a treat. After being seated at a cozy booth, we ordered yummy cocktails: a Blackened Cosmo for me (peppery with hints of clove) and the Pear Bay for Amy (pear liqueur with a touch of bayleaf). For an appetizer, we couldn’t resist the fried risotto balls with braised goat, which we devoured. For entrées we ordered the duck leg confit served with duck sausage and lentils (wow!) and the Snake River sturgeon with braised baby fennel (double wow!). But our favorite was the side of carmelized Brussel sprouts with balsamic vinegar and parmesan cheese. Cheers to Ceres, the ancient goddess of the harvest, and to Ceres’ Table for a lovely Italian feast.

All during dinner we never stopped talking about everything imaginable. Amy, who’s single and doesn’t have kids, was nevertheless all ears as I chatted on about my family and career. She shared her adventures during the previous nine years as she moved from place to place and job to job, taking an extended break to spend time with her dad after her mom died. Amy and I talked as if we were possessed, and in a way we were. It was like we each had a chance to define a decade of our existence, then place it into a context, and try to make sense of it all. After a few drinks, however, we didn’t worry too much about what made sense anymore. It just felt great to be hanging out and enjoying each other’s company in such a wonderful city.

The night was young so Amy and I headed over to Green Mill, a jazz club frequented by Al Capone in the 20s. It’s a funky place, stuck in a time warp, but well worth a visit for its big band sound and historic ambiance. In fact, our waitress confided that she prefers to visit Chicago’s funky dives when she goes out. “They’re much more interesting,” she said, “and fun!” Amy wanted to show me another favorite hangout, the Hopleaf, where we ended up chatting ‘til midnight.

I was happy to be dropped off  at my hotel, the Essex Inn, conveniently located on Michigan Avenue. Perfect for families, it features a rooftop pool, as well as a fitness center and sauna. I loved my corner suite, which was spacious and offered a million-dollar view of Lake Michigan, Grant Park, the Navy Pier, Field Museum, Shedd Aquarium, and Adler Planetarium. One morning I did some yoga poses overlooking the peaceful vista of sea and sky.

By contrast, the writing conference was a zoo. There were nearly 11,000 writers shuttling back and forth between Hilton Chicago and the Palmer Hilton, attending seminars, drinking Starbucks, and scribbling notes on how to write the next great American masterpiece. I learned a lot and enjoyed being in the company of other writers, but I was always glad when it was time to leave the hordes of conference-goers behind and disappear onto the city sidewalks.

One night I took in a show all by myself. I hopped on the metro and headed to the Briar Street Theatre on the Northside to see Blue Man Group, a multimedia show that is dazzling crowds in big cities across the U.S. A snow flurry fell as I hurried along the city streets, worrying about being late for the performance. Luckily I was right on time and joined the noisy crowd of mostly young people for a very entertaining evening.

What is Blue Man Group? Well, a clue can be found in the quote displayed on stage, “When meeting people from a foreign culture, offer a few gifts that reflect your interests as a gesture of friendship. Better yet, give things you’ve created yourself.… Ultimately, the best way to forge a lasting friendship is to create something together. Whether it’s a meal, an art project, or a spontaneous dance party, when you create something with others, you build a connection that lasts a lifetime.” That quote set the stage for a wild evening of disco music—think “Shake Your Booty”; interactive art; marshmallows and Captain Crunch; huge, floating orbs; toilet paper streamers; and music festival moves. It’s a feel-good show, and there’s even a message mixed in with all the madness. I loved it!

INVENTIONS & INNOVATIONS

Saturday morning after one final seminar at the conference, I hopped on a bus to the Chicago History Museum by Lincoln Park. It’s a great place to learn about the history of Chicago, its many cultural groups, musical roots, and historic disasters. I enjoyed the exhibit called “Second to None,” which highlighted the myriad inventions and innovations that began in the city—birth control pills, social reform, and products like Wrigley’s gum, Lincoln Logs, and Morton salt, for example. The Chicago History Museum also offers walking and trolley tours with a variety of themes.

Back on the bus, I headed downtown to meet my cousin Don and his wife, Val, at Rockit Bar & Grill for a Bloody Mary brunch. I’d dined at Rockit’s while visiting Chicago on a girlfriend getaway a couple years ago and remembered the amazing Bloody Mary bar with dozens of AYCE garnishes (shrimp, olives, cold cuts, cheese, peppers, capers, roasted garlic….), and it was just as tasty as I remembered. I hadn’t seen Don in years, and we had fun catching up in spite of a rather loud singer crooning in the background. Don and Val live in a neighborhood a couple miles to the west, and when I raved about Chicago, Don wrinkled up his nose and said he rarely leaves his neighborhood. “It has everything I need,” he said. I was glad he and Val made the trek downtown to have lunch with me. Next time I’m in town, I plan to venture out into Chicago’s many diverse neighborhoods to see what they’re like.

Sunday was my last day, and I packed it full. First I walked to the Adler Planetarium from my hotel, where I met a woman whom I’d interviewed via email about a stargazing story I was writing for another magazine. Audrey Fischer, a native Chicagoan, impressed me so much with her passion for the night sky, I knew I had to meet her, and Adler Planetarium was the perfect venue. The building itself—on the edge of Lake Michigan—is stunning: a 12-sided polygon made of rainbow granite from Minnesota with a copper dome. Founded in 1930, it was America’s first planetarium and houses one of the finest collections of astronomical artifacts.

Audrey and I immediately headed to the Grainger Sky Theater, one of three theaters at the Adler, for the newest show, Deep Space Adventure, an amazing encounter with outer space. Afterwards Audrey showed me an exhibit dedicated to reclaiming the night sky, which she inspired. Audrey is founder of the Global Star Park Network, which encourages cities and municipalities to reduce light pollution to allow for optimal night sky viewing. The exhibit shows how light pollution affects our ability to view stars and shows examples of lighting fixtures that are night-sky friendly. I’m a big fan of stargazing, so meeting Audrey inspires me to get more involved in this issue. (You can, too. Visit www.onestar-awb.org.)

My next stop was Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry, where my former yoga teacher, Michele, joined me—along with her twin four-year-old daughters. Michele was my first yoga teacher and moved to Illinois last year, so I was thrilled to see her again. Her daughters, Miley and Elena, were an added bonus. We careened all over MOSI, looking at exhibits about the human body, stormy weather, farm innovations, and more. The girls loved the Idea Factory, a kids’ area with waterplay, plastic balls, and Rube Goldberg-type machines. The museum closed at 4 p.m., which seemed way too early, so we found a Starbucks in a cute neighborhood nearby and hunkered down for some girl talk. Miley and Elena took turns sitting in my lap and commemorating our meeting with a digital camera. I told Michele later I was in pink heaven and realized how much I need to have a girlie-fix every now and then—especially since I live in a house with three guys.

AN ODE TO LIVING WELL

A quick bus ride and I was back downtown scurrying through another flurry to meet Amy at Custom House Tavern, a restaurant recommended by a friend. I actually didn’t mind the cold weather in Chicago. I was bundled up well with a scarf and mittens, and the stinging feeling of cold wind on my face made me feel alive. OK, maybe if I lived in Chicago for an entire winter I wouldn’t be loving it so much, but for a few days, it was a nice change of pace. Actually, that’s what traveling is about, isn’t it? A chance to change your pace, to slow down and look around, to take in new sights, renew old friendships, and live in the moment.

I sat at the bar sipping a nice Malbec when Amy walked up with a happy smile on her face. We immediately started gabbing again and pretty much talked our way through dinner, a long, drawn-out affair, the kind of meal that lingers like a poem in your memory. Taking your time while dining is something people have forgotten how to do, I think. They need to remember that it’s about savoring the flavors, the moment, the person you’re with. The evening becomes an ode to living well when you take your time, and the Custom House Tavern proved to be the perfect place to enjoy a culinary experience of epic proportions.

Our appetizers served as a prelude for a stellar meal. Amy and I shared grilled octopus with a touch of Old Bay aioli and fennel— tender and perfectly cooked—as well as a handmade pork sausage, plump and juicy, served with a yummy cranberry mustard. For our entrée we wisely shared a 20-ounce dry-aged all-natural rib eye, which had the most exquisite flavor, served on a bed of braised short rib hash with cauliflower and fingerling potatoes. We had to try the roasted beet risotto featuring walnuts and ricotta cheese, which was amazing, and a potato boulangerie with potatoes, carmelized onions, and bacon—sinfully good. Dessert—no way. We were so full, but very happy.

That day I’d enjoyed the company of five extraordinary females, and I truly felt blessed. As I walked home, I thought about the value of friendship and how it helps us put our lives in perspective. I looked up and saw the pedestrian traffic sign: a red hand telling me to stop. I remembered the Buddha, smiled, and waited, knowing that this adventure in Chicago was part of my journey, and the experiences and lessons I learned here would deepen and grow and merge in time. n

For more information, visit Explorechicago.org.

“Congratulations on your award,” said Lynn Clements, director of the Virginia Aquarium. “I’m introducing you.”

“Umm, thanks, Lynn!” I mumbled, smiling, as I continued viewing displays of community projects by local Girl Scouts. I had known I would receive an award at the annual conference for the Girl Scouts of Colonial Coast in March. I wasn’t sure what the award was, however, and being typically busy with life, I hadn’t bothered to ask. I just bought a new outfit and showed up—all the while thinking I would be among a group of many women receiving recognition.

However, that morning, I’d received an email from the Girl Scouts’ communication director, Marcy Germanotta, telling me to be prepared to say a few words. In the car, I had practiced a short speech that I hoped would be enough to get by. Like many people, public speaking for me is just slightly less painful than having a baby. Of course, I was honored to be recognized in the community—though I still wasn’t sure what for—as well as having an opportunity to increase awareness about Tidewater Women.

As people gathered in the ballroom of the Renaissance in Portsmouth for lunch, I thumbed through the program and found a long list of awardees in the back with brief bios. Oddly, mine wasn’t there. About that time, a women sitting at the table introduced herself. “I’m Valencia Ingram,” she said. “I’m getting the same award you are.”

I felt so clueless. Then I turned to the front of the program, where I saw my photo and bio, and discovered I would be receiving the Girl Scouts’ “Women of Courage, Confidence, and Character” award. Funny enough, as I contemplated the huge audience I would be addressing in a few moments, I felt very little courage and confidence. Fortunately, I rallied and, after Lynn’s kind introduction, managed to speak to the crowd without putting my foot in my mouth.

The whole episode seems a little surreal to me, but I learned a few lessons. Obviously, I would make sure in future I knew exactly what kind of event I would be attending and what would be expected of me. Second, I learned that I could rise to the occasion when needed and that often the only person keeping me from moving forward is me.

I’m sharing this story not because I want to brag about winning an award. (I still feel there are many more deserving women in the community than I.)  Rather, this story illustrates an obstacle that many of us face in life—our self doubts. I think we have a tendency to convince ourselves that we aren’t capable of certain things—changing a tire, fixing a broken phone, or figuring out our taxes—when in fact we are amazingly capable. All it takes is effort, and we will surprise ourselves with our supernatural powers. I’m sure of it.

About a year ago Sally Kocen of the Frieden Agency called and asked if I would accept the nomination for president-elect of the local chapter of NAWBO (National Association of Women Business Owners). My first thought was “Me?” My second thought was “No way!” as a million excuses jumped to mind. But then a little voice came through—quiet at first, barely discernable. “You can do it,” the voice said. “You need to do it. It’s the right time.”

So without too much thought, I took a deep breath and accepted Sally’s invitation. Now as I contemplate taking over in June and leading the local NAWBO chapter, I’m filled with excitement at the possibilities—and reminded that each of us has so much to contribute to the world. We only need to remember the supernatural powers we possess—and then use them to make the world a better place.

Have a merry month!

Love, Peggy

Spring is a great time for taking photos of the outdoors. There’s a kind of glow, a lushness in nature—shockingly green trees, azure blue sky, and our silky blue waterways. What I love about watching nature is how it changes from one minute to the next. Last night I dined at Mahi Mah’s overlooking the boardwalk with Peter, Ross, and Jasper, as well as my mom, my brother Paul, and his wife, Robin. It was half-price wine night, so we lingered over two nice bottles of red wine, as we enjoyed our meal.

Paul remarked at how the colors of the sea and sky changed as dusk descended. Facing east, we couldn’t see the sunset, but it didn’t matter because the effervescent effect of the sunset colored our view. At one point the calm, flat ocean looked so silky and serene, its grayish-blue hue highlighted with shades of jade green. The scene fairly shimmered, and we felt lucky to see it.

Nature lovers with a penchant for picture taking will want to participate in the City of Chesapeake’s current photo contest in celebration of National Travel and Tourism Week. All you have to do is take a photo while you're out enjoying yourself in Chesapeake and include the letters “U.O.U.” somewhere in the photo.

It’s that simple! You can write the initials on a sheet of paper, spell them with found objects, or create them from an arrangement of leaves and flowers. Let your creativity shine! Prizes include gift cards raging from $150-$500. Contest deadline is May 4, 2012. See www.visitchesapeake.com/photo-contest for complete rules and regulations.

Spring has sprung in Tidewater. So get out there and enjoy the beauty of your surroundings—and don’t forget your camera.

The ghost of Thomas Jefferson presides in the rolling hills around Charlottesville—under the eaves of Monticello, beside the slopes of Barboursville Vineyards, on horseback in the woods of Oakland Farms, and around the Rotunda of UVA. Jefferson crops up in conversation unannounced as if he wants to chime in and share his knowledge, curiosity, and passion for all the possibilities that exist in the world. You can almost hear his sage advice on how to make things better—whether it’s penning the words that announce our country’s independence, growing fruit and vegetables more efficiently, or synthesizing the lessons learned by other great men throughout history.

Jefferson’s contributions to the world are many, and on a recent trip to Charlottesville with my husband, Peter, we found ourselves constantly amazed at this Renaissance man’s vision. It also became clear that Jefferson derived great pleasure from simply living—for he wasn’t always engaged in discussions about serious matters. In fact, life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness were themes that he embraced in his daily life. He loved simple pleasures: playing with his grandchildren, entertaining guests, drinking wine, and riding horseback regularly. In fact, he averaged four hours in the saddle most days he was in residence at Monticello.

I love this quote of Jefferson’s: “Leave all the afternoon for exercise and recreation, which are as necessary as reading. I will rather say more necessary because health is worth more than learning.” It seems to sum up his view that bettering oneself through education is important, of course, but exercise, fresh air, and leisure activities are equally essential in order to achieve a happy life.

Peter and I resolved to follow Jefferson’s advice on our three-day getaway to Charlottesville and pursue the simple pleasures of life in this small, but worldly city just four hours to the west. It was easy to do. Charlottesville is a delightful mix of history, nature, and adventure. Add in its reputation for fine-quality lodgings and restaurants and you have the perfect recipe for a rejuvenating retreat, one of which Thomas Jefferson would surely approve.

FRESH CREATIONS

Our visit began with a stay in the historic Clifton Inn just minutes from town. A luxurious Relais and Chateaux property, the inn was originally a private home known as Edgehill built by Thomas Mann Randolph, Jr., governor of Virginia, who married Thomas Jefferson’s daughter, Martha. Much has changed in the 200 years since Edgehill housed the Randolph family, and the current owners opened the Clifton Inn in 1995 as a five-room bed and breakfast. Today the inn comprises 18 total accommodations, including a lovely carriage house, and welcomes discerning guests to experience its richly appointed ambiance.

Our suite on the second floor offered a separate sitting room with a fireplace and lovely antiques as well as a spacious bedroom. I loved the creaky stairs and historical feel of the Clifton Inn, yet the amenities were decidedly 21st-century—think high-speed WiFi, Bose CD player, spa jet shower, and Italian bed linens. Another nice touch was a complimentary carafe of Madeira, a fortified wine popular in Jefferson’s day.

One morning we set out to explore the grounds, following a trail around a small pond. Serene settings in the surrounding woods offer the perfect backdrop for outdoor weddings—or a relaxing picnic on a warm, spring afternoon. Underneath the blooming dogwoods, you could repose with your sweetheart, a book of poetry, your favorite bottle of wine, some cheese, and while away the afternoon in bliss.

An infinity pool, a croquet lawn, and a flagstone terrace with Adirondack chairs offer other recreational pursuits, but Peter and I visited in winter, so chose to seek recreation inside by taking part in a cooking demonstration in Clifton Inn’s kitchen with Chef Tucker Yoder. Peter and I joined two other couples at a cozy bar, where we sipped wine and watched Chef create risottos using unusual ingredients.

“You don’t need to use rice when you make a risotto,” Tucker confided and proceeded to create a winter vegetable dish that had the creamy texture of risotto sans rice. He also whipped up a potato risotto with onions, garlic, vegetable stock, butter, white wine, and black truffle purée. For his finale, he created a chocolate risotto with canoroli rice and a splash of port or sweet sparkling wine. Peter and I were slightly disappointed that the demo didn’t involve tastings, but you can choose to enjoy any of the risottos for dinner in the adjoining dining room.

Instead we opted to order off the menu and proceeded to enjoy a feast of Biblical proportions. After a lavender martini—mmm—I enjoyed creamy, decadent foie gras for my first course, followed by a divers scallop accompanied by a roasted fig. Next a pasta dish with duck confit, and for dessert a deconstructed cheesecake with tart lime. Breakfast the next morning was also over-the-top. I ordered sunnyside-up eggs layered over smoked salmon with capers on a toasted English muffin with Applewood smoked bacon. Peter relished a goat cheese omelette with spinach and oyster mushrooms. Chef Tucker prides himself on the freshness of his creations and sources as much as possible locally. He even grows herbs and vegetables right outside the kitchen and can often be found tending his garden in spring and summer accompanied as often as not by one or more of his four children and, in spirit, perhaps Mr. Jefferson as well.

TIDY LANDSCAPE

This wasn’t our first visit to Monticello. We’ve toured Jefferson’s home twice in the past, each time with kids in tow. Now we could relax and absorb our surroundings without worrying that one of our mischievous boys would knock over a priceless vase. In fact, Monticello is more family friendly than ever and offers kids’ activities in the visitor’s center—like a discovery room, where you can try on 18th-century clothes, and a movie about Jefferson’s life. The tour inside Monticello is fairly brief, but not recommended for kids under six. Our tour guide, David Thurson, showed us many of Jefferson’s unique inventions and brought our third president to life with stories about his grandchildren and famous visitors like the Marquis de Lafayette with whom he shared copious amounts of wine, and his love of books, music, letter writing, and languages.

Peter and I always allow time to stroll around the grounds of Monticello, admiring the tidy landscape and symmetrical layout of the main building and the dependencies. On staff at Monticello are a number of archeologists currently excavating Mulberry Row, a lane beside which craftsmen lived and labored in support of Jefferson’s household. It also became a social center for slaves and indentured servants who worked at Monticello. Efforts are currently underway to create educational exhibits about Mulberry Row and its important contributions to Jefferson’s domain.

After our tour we lunched at Michie’s Tavern, an authentic tavern established in 1784 and then moved to its present site near Monticello in 1927. The rustic building welcomes guests to dine on Midday Fare, a buffet of delicious Southern dishes that will please any palate. Choose among fried chicken, hickory-smoked BBQ, mashed potatoes and gravy—natch—stewed tomatoes, green beans, cole slaw, and of course old-fashioned desserts like pecan and apple pie. I loved the fried chicken and ate it until I couldn’t eat anymore, but everything tasted home-cooked. Cindy, the marketing director for Michie Tavern, said the recipes have been handed down for generations and the cooks in the kitchen pride themselves in the consistent quality of the food.

Allow time for touring Michie Tavern. You can choose a self-guided tour year round or an interactive living history tour from April through October. You’ll learn what it was like to stay in a tavern, and if you’re lucky, you’ll dance the Virginia Reel during the tour. There’s also great shopping at Michie Tavern: a general store housed within a grist mill and a metalsmith shop with unique jewelry and period pieces to add a historic touch to your home décor. The Clothier sells period clothing for anyone who wants to get in touch with her inner pioneer. Cindy says families are always welcome to dress up in the clothing to take a picture—no charge! I’d driven by Mitchie Tavern numerous times and was glad to experience it this visit. Besides great food, you can enjoy learning more about Virginia history in a family-friendly atmosphere.

BANANAS & CLOVES

Jefferson made beer, we learned at our next stop—an award-winning brewery called Starr Hill in nearby Crozet. The lead brewer, Levi Duncan, gave us a tour of the facility after Melanie led us in an educational tasting. In fact, Levi said, Starr Hill makes a Monticello Reserve Ale in the style Jefferson would have quaffed, using wheat and corn, lightly hopped, as opposed to barley, which didn’t grow well here.

Starr Hill started out as a brewpub in 1999 and moved to its present location in 2005. Business is good, Levi said, and in 2011 they brewed over 20,000 barrels and distribute in eight states. Their brews include stouts, IPAs, lagers, and ales. I loved the Hefeweizer, which tasted of bananas and cloves. I also liked a brew available only in winter called The Gift, a German-style Hellerboch with a sweet finish. Speaking of sweet, we also sampled locally made chocolate bark with toffee, a delicious treat made with Dark Star Stout that Levi calls “chocolate crack.” It was hard to stop nibbling on it, that’s for sure.

Peter and I drove into C’ville next for a walk on the lively Downtown Mall, where a variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants line the pedestrian street. In warmer months live concerts every Friday attract families and students to the mall, and outdoor terraces offer al fresco dining as well as opportunities for people-watching.

For dinner we headed to the Commonwealth Restaurant & Bar, a new establishment that blends big-city décor with excellent cuisine at affordable prices. The swanky interior, decorated in muted tones, features semi-circular banquettes, sophisticated lighting, and a well-appointed bar. Trendy setting aside, the Commonwealth’s food is what’s bringing crowds through the doors. The chef, Alex George, a native of Gayana, creates dishes with a mixture of flavors that hint of time spent in the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, and South America.

Peter and I started with charcuterie, a trio of cured meats from near and far. Two offerings from a company called Olli Salumeria in Richmond included Sweet Lomo, a cured tenderloin rubbed in a aromatic spice blend, and Salame Toscano with a lovely fennel flavor. Rounding out the trio was Jamon Serrano from Spain that tasted smoky and salty and delicious. Condiments included homemade harissa and a sweet onion jam. For his entrée Peter followed the waiter’s recommendation and ordered grilled wild boar chops with gooseberries and horseradish mashed potatoes and was most satisfied. I loved my entrée, too: crispy duck breast with green beans in confit brightened with a mango ginger sauce. Absolutely heavenly. Before leaving, we peeked at the Sky Bar upstairs, where a happy crowd hung out under a plastic roof and waited for warmer weather when they could imbibe under the stars.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ROOM

Bright and early the next morning, we toured the Rotunda with Nick, a UVA student from England. The white dome structure is synonymous with UVA, yet I knew very little about it. Jefferson, who founded UVA, designed the Rotunda as a half-scale model of the Pantheon in Rome and positioned it at the head of the lawn around which he designed the original campus.

The original Rotunda burned down in 1895, but has been rebuilt to resemble Jefferson’s original plans as closely as possible. It’s a stunning example of architecture with rounded walls and curving staircases, yet it’s not ostentatious in the least. On the top floor under the dome is a space that’s been described as “the most beautiful room in America.” Around its circumference desks sit under the windows, providing an ideal spot to ponder the meaning of the universe. Indeed, Jefferson was known to spend long hours staring out the windows of the Rotunda. For him, founding the University of Virginia was among his proudest accomplishments.

That afternoon we drove north to Gordonsville for a horseback ride at Oakland Farms. Even though it was early February, the weather was perfect. A clear blue sky, warm sun, no wind, and mild temperatures combined to create a relaxing outing. David Lamb, the owner of Oakland Farms, shared Civil War history with us on the ride, describing in detail a battle won by the Confederacy on nearby land that resulted in heavy Union casualties. As we rode along a ridge, David said we were riding on the same trail that Thomas Jefferson and his good friend James Madison used as they rode between Monticello and Montpelier. For a moment I sensed Jefferson’s presence as our horses ambled through the quiet stillness of woods in winter.

For our last night we stayed in Barboursville Vineyard’s 1804 Inn, which offers three luxurious suites and a cute cottage. After entering our suite and surveying the large living room, I thought to myself, “This could be a close contender for the most beautiful room in America.” Indeed as the late-afternoon sunlight filtered through large windows, the cozy room invited repose—and to help us relax, a plate of fruit and cheese and a bottle of Barboursville Cabernet and two wine glasses awaited on the table. We had a quick nibble and then went to the winery for a tasting of Barboursville’s award-winning wines. Next the general manager Luca Paschina gave us a tour of the facility, regaling us with stories about the winery’s early days and its efforts to produce some of the New World’s best wines.

They’ve succeeded, but it’s taken a lot of effort. When the Italian owners, Gianni and Silvana Zonin, bought the land in 1976, there were only four other wineries in Virginia. The state agricultural board told them that the future of Virginia was in tobacco and didn’t share their vision that Virginia’s terroir had the potential to create marvelous wines. Undaunted the owners persevered, and today their worldly wines have achieved a level of quality most other Virginia wineries can only dream of. Octagon, Barboursville’s red blend, is a multi-dimensional wine which celebrates the best of the varietals it comprises—the liveliness of Merlot, the brightness of the Cab Franc, and the depth and expression of the Cabernet Sauvignon.

The best way to enjoy wines is of course with food, and the best place to enjoy Barboursville wines is at Palladio, Barboursville’s stellar restaurant run by Chef Melissa Close Hart. This is a place where you will literally feel like you have been transported to Northern Italy—linen tablecloths, fine cutlery, and elegant table setting. Service was impeccable, provided by Alessandro Medici, an affable Italian who has presided over Palladio since the restaurant opened its doors in 1999.

Chef Melissa’s flair for creating extraordinary cuisine has brought international recognition ever since she took the helm in 2000. From our amuse bouche, a flavorful rabbit pot pie in a 2-inch cast iron skillet, to the delicious rosemary ice cream that ended our meal, Peter and I swooned at the tastes and textures of our four-course menu with wine pairings. My courses included house-made charcuterie that was truly art on a plate with duck proscuitto, salami, and a foie gras paté. Next I tried squid ink risotto, black as midnight with the flavors of the sea. My main course was rib eye slices, cooked a perfect medium rare with beef confit and a potato hash with roasted Brussel sprouts. Amazing flavors that leapt from the fork onto my tongue. Peter’s courses included balsamic braised beef tongue—salty and sweet; pappardelle with duck and liver ragu; and porcini-braised goat, from a herd of goats that Luca told us lived off the shrubs and grasses of Barboursville Vineyards. For dessert Peter had almond and cherry panna cotta, its crunchy exterior a perfect foil for the creamy oozing goodness within.

Dinner at Palladio lingers in my memory like a half-forgotten song. It’s almost as if Peter and I had crossed the Big Pond and landed magically in Italy for the night. We drove down the quiet lane under the light of a transcendent moon, returning to our dreamy suite. We shared breakfast the next morning with four sisters who celebrate each other’s birthdays by visiting noteworthy destinations. Like us, they’d dined at Palladio the night before and fell under its spell. “It’s hard to leave,” I told them, but work and responsibilities were calling us home.

As we drove south toward the coast, I thought about our encounters with Thomas Jefferson. I felt as if I’d met him somehow: in the woods on horseback, sipping wine as we dined on fine food, and staring out the windows of the Rotunda, marveling at the possibilities that exist in the world.

• visitcharlottesville.org

• cliftoninn.net

• barboursvillewine.com

• monticello.org

• michietavern.com

• commonwealthskybar.com

• starrhill.com

The ghost of Thomas Jefferson presides in the rolling hills around Charlottesville—under the eaves of Monticello, beside the slopes of Barboursville Vineyards, on horseback in the woods of Oakland Farms, and around the Rotunda of UVA. Jefferson crops up in conversation unannounced as if he wants to chime in and share his knowledge, curiosity, and passion for all the possibilities that exist in the world. You can almost hear his sage advice on how to make things better—whether it’s penning the words that announce our country’s independence, growing fruit and vegetables more efficiently, or synthesizing the lessons learned by other great men throughout history.

Jefferson’s contributions to the world are many, and on a recent trip to Charlottesville with my husband, Peter, we found ourselves constantly amazed at this Renaissance man’s vision. It also became clear that Jefferson derived great pleasure from simply living—for he wasn’t always engaged in discussions about serious matters. In fact, life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness were themes that he embraced in his daily life. He loved simple pleasures: playing with his grandchildren, entertaining guests, drinking wine, and riding horseback regularly. In fact, he averaged four hours in the saddle most days he was in residence at Monticello.

I love this quote of Jefferson’s: “Leave all the afternoon for exercise and recreation, which are as necessary as reading. I will rather say more necessary because health is worth more than learning.” It seems to sum up his view that bettering oneself through education is important, of course, but exercise, fresh air, and leisure activities are equally essential in order to achieve a happy life.

Peter and I resolved to follow Jefferson’s advice on our three-day getaway to Charlottesville and pursue the simple pleasures of life in this small, but worldly city just four hours to the west. It was easy to do. Charlottesville is a delightful mix of history, nature, and adventure. Add in its reputation for fine-quality lodgings and restaurants and you have the perfect recipe for a rejuvenating retreat, one of which Thomas Jefferson would surely approve.

FRESH CREATIONS

Our visit began with a stay in the historic Clifton Inn just minutes from town. A luxurious Relais and Chateaux property, the inn was originally a private home known as Edgehill built by Thomas Mann Randolph, Jr., governor of Virginia, who married Thomas Jefferson’s daughter, Martha. Much has changed in the 200 years since Edgehill housed the Randolph family, and the current owners opened the Clifton Inn in 1995 as a five-room bed and breakfast. Today the inn comprises 18 total accommodations, including a lovely carriage house, and welcomes discerning guests to experience its richly appointed ambiance.

Our suite on the second floor offered a separate sitting room with a fireplace and lovely antiques as well as a spacious bedroom. I loved the creaky stairs and historical feel of the Clifton Inn, yet the amenities were decidedly 21st-century—think high-speed WiFi, Bose CD player, spa jet shower, and Italian bed linens. Another nice touch was a complimentary carafe of Madeira, a fortified wine popular in Jefferson’s day.

One morning we set out to explore the grounds, following a trail around a small pond. Serene settings in the surrounding woods offer the perfect backdrop for outdoor weddings—or a relaxing picnic on a warm, spring afternoon. Underneath the blooming dogwoods, you could repose with your sweetheart, a book of poetry, your favorite bottle of wine, some cheese, and while away the afternoon in bliss.

An infinity pool, a croquet lawn, and a flagstone terrace with Adirondack chairs offer other recreational pursuits, but Peter and I visited in winter, so chose to seek recreation inside by taking part in a cooking demonstration in Clifton Inn’s kitchen with Chef Tucker Yoder. Peter and I joined two other couples at a cozy bar, where we sipped wine and watched Chef create risottos using unusual ingredients.

“You don’t need to use rice when you make a risotto,” Tucker confided and proceeded to create a winter vegetable dish that had the creamy texture of risotto sans rice. He also whipped up a potato risotto with onions, garlic, vegetable stock, butter, white wine, and black truffle purée. For his finale, he created a chocolate risotto with canoroli rice and a splash of port or sweet sparkling wine. Peter and I were slightly disappointed that the demo didn’t involve tastings, but you can choose to enjoy any of the risottos for dinner in the adjoining dining room.

Instead we opted to order off the menu and proceeded to enjoy a feast of Biblical proportions. After a lavender martini—mmm—I enjoyed creamy, decadent foie gras for my first course, followed by a divers scallop accompanied by a roasted fig. Next a pasta dish with duck confit, and for dessert a deconstructed cheesecake with tart lime. Breakfast the next morning was also over-the-top. I ordered sunnyside-up eggs layered over smoked salmon with capers on a toasted English muffin with Applewood smoked bacon. Peter relished a goat cheese omelette with spinach and oyster mushrooms. Chef Tucker prides himself on the freshness of his creations and sources as much as possible locally. He even grows herbs and vegetables right outside the kitchen and can often be found tending his garden in spring and summer accompanied as often as not by one or more of his four children and, in spirit, perhaps Mr. Jefferson as well.

TIDY LANDSCAPE

This wasn’t our first visit to Monticello. We’ve toured Jefferson’s home twice in the past, each time with kids in tow. Now we could relax and absorb our surroundings without worrying that one of our mischievous boys would knock over a priceless vase. In fact, Monticello is more family friendly than ever and offers kids’ activities in the visitor’s center—like a discovery room, where you can try on 18th-century clothes, and a movie about Jefferson’s life. The tour inside Monticello is fairly brief, but not recommended for kids under six. Our tour guide, David Thurson, showed us many of Jefferson’s unique inventions and brought our third president to life with stories about his grandchildren and famous visitors like the Marquis de Lafayette with whom he shared copious amounts of wine, and his love of books, music, letter writing, and languages.

Peter and I always allow time to stroll around the grounds of Monticello, admiring the tidy landscape and symmetrical layout of the main building and the dependencies. On staff at Monticello are a number of archeologists currently excavating Mulberry Row, a lane beside which craftsmen lived and labored in support of Jefferson’s household. It also became a social center for slaves and indentured servants who worked at Monticello. Efforts are currently underway to create educational exhibits about Mulberry Row and its important contributions to Jefferson’s domain.

After our tour we lunched at Michie’s Tavern, an authentic tavern established in 1784 and then moved to its present site near Monticello in 1927. The rustic building welcomes guests to dine on Midday Fare, a buffet of delicious Southern dishes that will please any palate. Choose among fried chicken, hickory-smoked BBQ, mashed potatoes and gravy—natch—stewed tomatoes, green beans, cole slaw, and of course old-fashioned desserts like pecan and apple pie. I loved the fried chicken and ate it until I couldn’t eat anymore, but everything tasted home-cooked. Cindy, the marketing director for Michie Tavern, said the recipes have been handed down for generations and the cooks in the kitchen pride themselves in the consistent quality of the food.

Allow time for touring Michie Tavern. You can choose a self-guided tour year round or an interactive living history tour from April through October. You’ll learn what it was like to stay in a tavern, and if you’re lucky, you’ll dance the Virginia Reel during the tour. There’s also great shopping at Michie Tavern: a general store housed within a grist mill and a metalsmith shop with unique jewelry and period pieces to add a historic touch to your home décor. The Clothier sells period clothing for anyone who wants to get in touch with her inner pioneer. Cindy says families are always welcome to dress up in the clothing to take a picture—no charge! I’d driven by Mitchie Tavern numerous times and was glad to experience it this visit. Besides great food, you can enjoy learning more about Virginia history in a family-friendly atmosphere.

BANANAS & CLOVES

Jefferson made beer, we learned at our next stop—an award-winning brewery called Starr Hill in nearby Crozet. The lead brewer, Levi Duncan, gave us a tour of the facility after Melanie led us in an educational tasting. In fact, Levi said, Starr Hill makes a Monticello Reserve Ale in the style Jefferson would have quaffed, using wheat and corn, lightly hopped, as opposed to barley, which didn’t grow well here.

Starr Hill started out as a brewpub in 1999 and moved to its present location in 2005. Business is good, Levi said, and in 2011 they brewed over 20,000 barrels and distribute in eight states. Their brews include stouts, IPAs, lagers, and ales. I loved the Hefeweizer, which tasted of bananas and cloves. I also liked a brew available only in winter called The Gift, a German-style Hellerboch with a sweet finish. Speaking of sweet, we also sampled locally made chocolate bark with toffee, a delicious treat made with Dark Star Stout that Levi calls “chocolate crack.” It was hard to stop nibbling on it, that’s for sure.

Peter and I drove into C’ville next for a walk on the lively Downtown Mall, where a variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants line the pedestrian street. In warmer months live concerts every Friday attract families and students to the mall, and outdoor terraces offer al fresco dining as well as opportunities for people-watching.

For dinner we headed to the Commonwealth Restaurant & Bar, a new establishment that blends big-city décor with excellent cuisine at affordable prices. The swanky interior, decorated in muted tones, features semi-circular banquettes, sophisticated lighting, and a well-appointed bar. Trendy setting aside, the Commonwealth’s food is what’s bringing crowds through the doors. The chef, Alex George, a native of Gayana, creates dishes with a mixture of flavors that hint of time spent in the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, and South America.

Peter and I started with charcuterie, a trio of cured meats from near and far. Two offerings from a company called Olli Salumeria in Richmond included Sweet Lomo, a cured tenderloin rubbed in a aromatic spice blend, and Salame Toscano with a lovely fennel flavor. Rounding out the trio was Jamon Serrano from Spain that tasted smoky and salty and delicious. Condiments included homemade harissa and a sweet onion jam. For his entrée Peter followed the waiter’s recommendation and ordered grilled wild boar chops with gooseberries and horseradish mashed potatoes and was most satisfied. I loved my entrée, too: crispy duck breast with green beans in confit brightened with a mango ginger sauce. Absolutely heavenly. Before leaving, we peeked at the Sky Bar upstairs, where a happy crowd hung out under a plastic roof and waited for warmer weather when they could imbibe under the stars.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ROOM

Bright and early the next morning, we toured the Rotunda with Nick, a UVA student from England. The white dome structure is synonymous with UVA, yet I knew very little about it. Jefferson, who founded UVA, designed the Rotunda as a half-scale model of the Pantheon in Rome and positioned it at the head of the lawn around which he designed the original campus.

The original Rotunda burned down in 1895, but has been rebuilt to resemble Jefferson’s original plans as closely as possible. It’s a stunning example of architecture with rounded walls and curving staircases, yet it’s not ostentatious in the least. On the top floor under the dome is a space that’s been described as “the most beautiful room in America.” Around its circumference desks sit under the windows, providing an ideal spot to ponder the meaning of the universe. Indeed, Jefferson was known to spend long hours staring out the windows of the Rotunda. For him, founding the University of Virginia was among his proudest accomplishments.

That afternoon we drove north to Gordonsville for a horseback ride at Oakland Farms. Even though it was early February, the weather was perfect. A clear blue sky, warm sun, no wind, and mild temperatures combined to create a relaxing outing. David Lamb, the owner of Oakland Farms, shared Civil War history with us on the ride, describing in detail a battle won by the Confederacy on nearby land that resulted in heavy Union casualties. As we rode along a ridge, David said we were riding on the same trail that Thomas Jefferson and his good friend James Madison used as they rode between Monticello and Montpelier. For a moment I sensed Jefferson’s presence as our horses ambled through the quiet stillness of woods in winter.

For our last night we stayed in Barboursville Vineyard’s 1804 Inn, which offers three luxurious suites and a cute cottage. After entering our suite and surveying the large living room, I thought to myself, “This could be a close contender for the most beautiful room in America.” Indeed as the late-afternoon sunlight filtered through large windows, the cozy room invited repose—and to help us relax, a plate of fruit and cheese and a bottle of Barboursville Cabernet and two wine glasses awaited on the table. We had a quick nibble and then went to the winery for a tasting of Barboursville’s award-winning wines. Next the general manager Luca Paschina gave us a tour of the facility, regaling us with stories about the winery’s early days and its efforts to produce some of the New World’s best wines.

They’ve succeeded, but it’s taken a lot of effort. When the Italian owners, Gianni and Silvana Zonin, bought the land in 1976, there were only four other wineries in Virginia. The state agricultural board told them that the future of Virginia was in tobacco and didn’t share their vision that Virginia’s terroir had the potential to create marvelous wines. Undaunted the owners persevered, and today their worldly wines have achieved a level of quality most other Virginia wineries can only dream of. Octagon, Barboursville’s red blend, is a multi-dimensional wine which celebrates the best of the varietals it comprises—the liveliness of Merlot, the brightness of the Cab Franc, and the depth and expression of the Cabernet Sauvignon.

The best way to enjoy wines is of course with food, and the best place to enjoy Barboursville wines is at Palladio, Barboursville’s stellar restaurant run by Chef Melissa Close Hart. This is a place where you will literally feel like you have been transported to Northern Italy—linen tablecloths, fine cutlery, and elegant table setting. Service was impeccable, provided by Alessandro Medici, an affable Italian who has presided over Palladio since the restaurant opened its doors in 1999.

Chef Melissa’s flair for creating extraordinary cuisine has brought international recognition ever since she took the helm in 2000. From our amuse bouche, a flavorful rabbit pot pie in a 2-inch cast iron skillet, to the delicious rosemary ice cream that ended our meal, Peter and I swooned at the tastes and textures of our four-course menu with wine pairings. My courses included house-made charcuterie that was truly art on a plate with duck proscuitto, salami, and a foie gras paté. Next I tried squid ink risotto, black as midnight with the flavors of the sea. My main course was rib eye slices, cooked a perfect medium rare with beef confit and a potato hash with roasted Brussel sprouts. Amazing flavors that leapt from the fork onto my tongue. Peter’s courses included balsamic braised beef tongue—salty and sweet; pappardelle with duck and liver ragu; and porcini-braised goat, from a herd of goats that Luca told us lived off the shrubs and grasses of Barboursville Vineyards. For dessert Peter had almond and cherry panna cotta, its crunchy exterior a perfect foil for the creamy oozing goodness within.

Dinner at Palladio lingers in my memory like a half-forgotten song. It’s almost as if Peter and I had crossed the Big Pond and landed magically in Italy for the night. We drove down the quiet lane under the light of a transcendent moon, returning to our dreamy suite. We shared breakfast the next morning with four sisters who celebrate each other’s birthdays by visiting noteworthy destinations. Like us, they’d dined at Palladio the night before and fell under its spell. “It’s hard to leave,” I told them, but work and responsibilities were calling us home.

As we drove south toward the coast, I thought about our encounters with Thomas Jefferson. I felt as if I’d met him somehow: in the woods on horseback, sipping wine as we dined on fine food, and staring out the windows of the Rotunda, marveling at the possibilities that exist in the world.

• visitcharlottesville.org

• cliftoninn.net

• barboursvillewine.com

• monticello.org

• michietavern.com

• commonwealthskybar.com

• starrhill.com

Once an old boyfriend told me he thought I would have been a good pioneer woman. I guess he could picture me in a covered wagon with a gingham dress, white apron, dust in my hair, and a determined look in my eye—heading west to unknown territories, leaving the past behind.

I wasn’t sure whether he meant it as a compliment. Pioneer women by nature were not exactly known for being attractive. Out on the range being beautiful was likely a liability. Strength of character was more important, as were bravery and fortitude.

Most pioneer women probably would have rather not taken such a long, dangerous journey toward their future, but once they made up their minds to go west, they weathered the storms and grew stronger and more confident in the process. I think my old beau had these things in mind when he made his observation so many years ago.

Flash forward a few decades. I’m still here on the East Coast and have yet to sit in a covered wagon. I have been on a few journeys, some of which I didn’t want to take. However, life has a way of deciding things for you, doesn’t it? Yet even the hard journeys were learning experiences and led me to new understandings.

As I write this, I’m still trying to process some bad news Peter and I received yesterday—that my brother-in-law, Jost, had a serious heart attack in the Netherlands. He underwent open heart surgery last night, but as of five a.m. this morning, the doctors advised my sister-in-law to call in the family. That’s all I know right now.

News like this is never easy to hear—especially when many miles separate you from your loved ones in need, yet the truth is we all get slammed by sad things sometimes. It’s part of life, isn’t it? What’s amazing is how resilient the human spirit is in trying times. Somehow we find the strength and fortitude to put one foot in front of the other and keep going.

Of course, many of us carry sadness with us on our journeys. When you lose someone close, the sadness never really goes away. It’s right there underneath the surface, but you learn to compartmentalize it and deal with it in little chunks as you are able.

Feeling compassion toward others is easy when you consider that we’re all trying to find our way in the world. Whether we’re out on the prairie in a covered wagon or stuck in traffic on I-64, this common bond unites us all. It’s a shared sense of purpose. The important thing is to remember the trials of today prepare us for the next leg of our journey.

As you follow your path in the weeks ahead, take a moment to reach out to your fellow travelers. Small gestures like returning someone’s shopping cart or letting a driver slide in front of you in traffic are a way of making the world a brighter place for all of us. Even something as simple as a warm smile toward a stranger makes an impact on the world.

Good luck on your journey this month, and remember to stop and smell the roses!

Love, Peggy

PS - Don’t forget to visit TW’s advertisers and mention where you saw their ad. Thanks to their support, we can bring you the latest helpful information for today’s women!

It’s no secret that New Orleans is one of my favorite cities. Its unique small-town vibe, cozy architecture, amazing restaurants, and soulful music make it a divine destination for anyone seeking an escape from the ordinary.

I’ve visited many times over the years alone and with my family, but recently I found myself wanting to share the Big Easy with friends who’d never been.

Traveling with friends can be rewarding particularly if you are visiting a place with lots to do, and New Orleans definitely fits the bill with its mix of accommodations, attractions, and restaurants. Peter and I decided to invite longtime buddies Missy and Ray to come along. I’ve known Missy since we attended Radford many moons ago, and she and her husband Ray have become close friends over the years. We chose to plan our getaway for the week after Christmas, and I began creating a fun-filled itinerary. In the process, it occurred to me that New Orleans is the perfect choice for a college reunion or a family gathering. So here are a few tips for planning the ultimate group getaway to New Orleans.

FAVORITE HAUNTS

Even though I wanted to share some of my favorite New Orleans haunts with Missy and Ray, I also wanted to try some new experiences. I’d always wanted to stay in a Louisiana plantation home. Bocage, about an hour west of NOLA, was the perfect choice. This Greek Revival structure, designed in 1837 by architect James Dakin, has been lovingly restored in recent years by Dr. Marion Rundell, a Houston pathologist, and now operates as an elegant bed and breakfast.

“This place is like a museum,” Peter whispered as Bryan, the manager, showed us around. Furnished in authentic antiques, crystal chandeliers, and Oriental rugs, the treasure-filled rooms exuded elegance and extravagance. At first, we felt a little timid about staying in such beautiful surroundings, but the four of us soon made ourselves at home. Rocking chairs on the front porch offered the perfect spot for unwinding after our flight from Norfolk. Later we enjoyed a lovely spread of appetizers, played cards, and shared a bottle of wine in the cozy sitting room.

We dined the next morning under the watchful eye of Napoleon, gazing down from a portrait painted by artist Rembrandt Peale circa 1812. Our breakfast featured delicious omelettes accompanied by locally made boudin sausage served on Limoge china. We agreed our stay at Bocage made us feel like royalty and look forward to returning for more royal pampering one day.

In the French Quarter we arranged to stay in two different lodgings. The first—Jazz Quarters—is located on Rampart Drive, an easy walk from anywhere in the French Quarter. Featuring cute-as-a-button Creole cottages, each with its own unique charm, Jazz Quarters can accommodate 30+ guests and would be ideal for a reunion or a large family gathering. We shared a suite with Missy and Ray that had two bedrooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom. Outside under the live oak trees, cozy tables and benches offered the chance to enjoy fresh air and the occasional sunshine that peeked through during our stay. Breakfasts at Jazz Quarters were decadent and filling, served cheerfully by Vincent, the Dutch innkeeper, who also provided great tips on where to go and what to do.

After a couple days at Jazz Quarters, we moved to the historic Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street. This iconic institution had always been on my list of places to stay, and I’m happy to say the service, comfort, and ambiance lived up to its reputation. William Faulkner and Tennessee Williams are among the prominent literary figures who have stayed at Hotel Monteleone, which has been owned and operated by the same Italian family since 1886. Our rooms featured the right mixture of luxury and comfort and offered stunning views of the Mississippi River. Upstairs on the roof, where even better views await, you can take a swim in the rooftop pool or just relax in a sunny spot that feels miles away from Bourbon Street.

Hotel Monteleone is also known as the home of the famous Carousel Bar, a revolving bar that looks like a circus carousel. It’s the perfect place to enjoy one of New Orlean’s signature cocktails. While we were there, the hotel unveiled its new contemporary lounge area adjacent to the Carousel Bar, and on opening night, the trendy venue was packed with a fashionable crowd. Later this spring, the Criollo Restaurant and Lounge will bring a new dining experience to guests of Hotel Monteleone. I got a peek inside the construction zone and can’t wait to see the finished restaurant.

Hotel choices abound in New Orleans, and each one has its own charm. As you plan your reunion, consider what price range everyone can afford and plan accordingly. Jazz Quarters offers comfortable, unique accommodations for a good price, but if you feel like splurging, you’ll love the historic vibe of Hotel Monteleone.

TOOTHSOME & DECADENT

Dining choices, like hotels, are many and varied. In fact, you would be hard pressed to find a bad restaurant in New Orleans. I have many favorites, but here are a few in no particular order:

• Felix’s Oyster Bar – If you love oysters, this is the place to go. Make sure you stand at the bar because the shuckers save their largest, most succulent oysters for the bar customers. Order extra because once you start slurping down these salty-sweet oysters, you’ll want more.

• Mother’s – This classic eatery features home-cooked food that satisfies. Peter got the Roast Beef Po’ Boy with Debris—yummy bits of pan-roasted beef—and couldn’t believe the pile of meat stacked on his sandwich. Missy opted for soft shell crabs, which were sweet and tender. Ray tried the seafood platter and described it as “A+, perfectly fried.” I chose the fried chicken, collards, and red beans and rice, a heaping plateful of flavors and textures. Lorraine, our waitress, was a hoot and made us feel like old friends. We loved Mother’s, and I’m sure you will, too.

• Breakfast at Brennan’s is another iconic experience that you just have to experience at least once in your life. First, we sipped a Brandy Milk Punch, which tastes like a milkshake and goes down easy. Next we sampled some of the luscious soups—turtle soup and Creole onion, followed by our main dishes. Mine was a half portion of Eggs Shannon—poached eggs atop fried trout served on a bed of creamed spinach—and a half portion of Oysters Benedict with fried Gulf oysters that were crunchy and sweet. Peter had the Eggs Nouvelle New Orleans: poached eggs on a bed of lump crabmeat with a decadent brandy cream sauce. Believe it or not we even squeezed in some grillades and grits that were superb and then finished our amazing breakfast with flaming Bananas Foster. Needless to say, we waddled out the door!

• Red Fish Grill on Bourbon Street has a cheerful, bright ambiance and a family-friendly vibe. Everything on the menu looked good, so it was hard to choose. We shared two appetizers—Asian Tuna Tartare and BBQ Oysters—that pleased our palates. My main course was hickory-grilled redfish served with a savory assortment of vegetables—mushrooms, peas, onions, potatoes—as well as sausage and lump crab drizzled with a light lemon butter sauce. Yes, it was rich, but in New Orleans over-indulging is part of the fun! For dessert we shared Red Fish Grill’s famous double chocolate bread pudding.

• Bombay Club – Step back into another time at this award-winning cocktail lounge and restaurant, where inviting leather armchairs, wood paneling, and candelit corners echo a gentleman’s club of yesteryear. This venue is perfect for enjoying a round of drinks before heading out for a night on the town. Try the Cool as a Cucumber martini!

• Besh Steakhouse – This elegant restaurant inside Harrah’s Casino serves succulent steaks and seafood dishes designed by Chef John Besh, whose family of restaurants includes August, Lüke, and La Provence. We were wowed by our appetizers: spicy BBQ shrimp, a Besh specialty; decadent pasta shells overflowing with lump crabmeat and bathed in a rich cream sauce; and a lovely presentation of beef tartare served with a quail egg and mezzune salad greens. For my entrée, I had an aged New York strip, rare and beefy with just the right amount of toothsomeness. Peter enjoyed his juicy ribeye and green peppercorn sauce accompanied by huge crunchy, onion rings. After resting a bit, we indulged in a delicious helping of bread pudding with praline sauce for dessert. A decadent meal and one we’ll remember always.

STORIES OF THE SOUTH

New Orleans has a reputation for excessive partying and general debauchery. You can of course let the good times roll during your reunion in New Orleans, but when you wake up with a hangover the first morning you’re in town, you might be ready for some non-alcoholic activities. The following attractions are perfect for both families visiting New Orleans and your college buddies, who are all still big kids inside.

• Audubon Zoo – I’ve visited this zoo many times, and it never fails to enchant. From the pink flamingoes preening in their pond near the zoo entrance to the stately giraffes that roam in the African savanna exhibit, the amazing animal collection will capture your imagination. Peter and I laughed out loud as we watched a bored orangutan thumb through a phone book and an elephant play catch with an old tire. Don’t miss the albino alligators in the Louisiana Swamp exhibit. The best way to get to the zoo is via the St. Charles streetcar, an experience in itself.

• Audubon Aquarium of the Americas – A popular new exhibit at the aquarium is Parakeet Pointe, an 800-ft. outdoor environment that lets you interact with hundreds of colorful parakeets. Another favorite is the bustling colony of Rockhopper and African penguins. You can also view IMAX movies at the aquarium. Now showing is Born To Be Wild 3D, a moving film about rescuing elephants and orangutans.

• New Orleans Museum of Art – Half the fun of visiting this stellar art museum is getting there. After catching a streetcar heading north along Canal St., you’ll pass through Mid-City and continue to the end of the line. Next a five-minute stroll through City Park brings you to the grand entrance of this stunning Neoclassical building, which houses an impressive collection of 40,000 art pieces. Peter and I lunched in Café NOMA—a lovely eatery under the direction of Ralph Brennan and his culinary team. Then we lingered in the outdoor sculpture garden, a tranquil oasis where art and nature commingle in quiet harmony.

• Ogden Museum of Southern Art – One of my favorite things to do when I visit a city is to find out what the locals do. Our visit to New Orleans coincided with Ogden After Hours, a weekly event at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art featuring live music, interviews with musicians, and a kids’ art activity. We loved the bluesy band as well as wandering through the galleries, where Southern art tells the stories of the South.

• Frenchmen Street – On the edge of the Marigny, this humble street is home to the city’s best music venues—Snug Harbor, dba, and my favorite The Spotted Cat. Plan to rendezvous here with your reunion chums to hear a variety of musical styles—think gypsy jazz, eclectic funk, and the blues. Bring your dancing shoes!

IN THE MOMENT

Planning a reunion in New Orleans isn’t rocket science. In fact, this city was made for good times, and there’s no time like the present to gather a group of friends or distant family members to “pass a good time” in this unique destination.

And as your plans coalesce, remember to include some chill time during your reunion. Plan at least one or two unscheduled afternoons to allow everyone the chance to wander around the French Quarter and experience the unexpected allure New Orleans holds in store.

One evening Peter and I found ourselves with an hour to spare before our dinner reservations. We strolled around the Quarter and ended up at Café Envy, a coffeeshop with rickety sidewalk tables and a cool vibe. We ordered coffee and proceeded to watch the world go by. It wasn’t long before we found ourselves immersed in conversation with an itinerant harmonica player, a chain-smoking grandma in a bathrobe, and a tattooed  troubadour with a guitar slung over his back.

We were having so much fun, we decided to cancel our fancy dinner reservations and grab a bite at a funky dive bar called Mississippi River Bottom. There we ate debris fries—trust me, you have to try them one time in your life—and listened to the click-clack of a game of pool in the next room. It was way more fun than a fancy dinner would have been.

New Orleans is the perfect place to live in the moment, says my friend Grace, who lives in the French Quarter. Her comment sums up what I love about this city. Here you can forget the past and the future and embrace the moment you’re in. Rally some of your friends and start planning your own reunion in New Orleans soon. I guarantee you’ll be glad you did! 

For  more information, visit www.neworleanscvb.com and let the good times roll!

Impressive, daunting, and vast, Europe’s capital cities can be overwhelming, especially to first-time visitors. Faced with a limited amount of time to explore, you feel stressed from the get-go just trying to fit in all the important attractions. And even if you stay for days, you’ll never have time to see all that’s there. Plus hurrying along city streets—surrounded by hundreds of other tourists who follow each other like sheep from one must-see site to another—can be utterly exhausting.

When you concentrate on seeing the city’s sights, you end up missing those more peaceful venues just beyond the city limits. Personally I need a break from crowds when I travel. Heading off the beaten track not only helps me calm down and savor the moment, it has also brought me face to face with some amazing sites that tourists who stay inside city limits never see.

Last summer during an eight-day visit to the Emerald Isle, husband Peter, son Jasper, and I barely spent a day in Ireland’s capital city and instead explored Dublin’s neighboring counties, where the pace of life slows down, the crowds thin out, and you can get a real feel for what Ireland is all about.

HERITAGE CAPITAL

North of Dublin rolling hills welcomed us to County Meath, known as Ireland’s heritage capital. You can spend days, even weeks, wandering around the ancient sites in this verdant region—there’s that much to see.

Climb the Hill of Tara, an evocative setting amid green rolling hills, where the High Kings of Ireland were crowned. At the summit you can see the Central Plain of Ireland and the shadowy mountains that lie beyond. Around you ridges and swirls define ancient earthworks engraved in the ground centuries ago. Pause and perhaps you can hear the singing stone of destiny announcing the presence of once and future kings.

Or explore Trim Castle, the largest Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland, where “Braveheart” was filmed, and learn about medieval life and times. The ruins of Dunmoe Castle offer another glimpse into a time when this was a hostile land, a place where battles waged and won determined the course of Irish history.

But County Meath is probably best known for Bru na Boinne, the palace of the Boyne, one of the world’s most important archaeological landscapes. Here you’ll find the prehistoric passage tombs of Newgrange, Knowth, and Dowth. Built in the Neolithic age  (c. 3200 BC), these burial mounds contain passages leading to chambers, where archeologists believe cremated remains of the dead were entombed.

Of the three, only at Newgrange can visitors walk inside the mound, but you have to arrive early to get a ticket. Tours to Newgrange were full by the time my family and I arrived, so we chose to visit Knowth, where a large burial mound towers over smaller satellite tombs. The guided tour offers insight into the people who built the mounds, why they built them, and how the tombs were used.

Huge rocks create a foundation for the mounds, and many bear examples of Neolithic art, carved into the stones: swirls and symbols whose meanings remain unknown. At Newgrange, every year during the winter solstice, a shaft of sunlight pierces the inner chamber, an event that draws huge crowds. Like other World Heritage Sites, such as the ancient pyramids and Stonehenge—both of which this site predates, Bru na Boinne makes you wonder how our early ancestors built these structures, even incorporating astronomical events into their rituals.

Our accommodations in County Meath were decidedly not ancient. We stayed in a gorgeous new Marriott in Ashbourne with lots of amenities. With Ireland’s penchant for rain, Peter and Jasper found the indoor pool inviting. I took respite at Daydream Spa, where Fiona gave me an amazing Indian Head Massage that invigorated my face and scalp. We loved the Marriott’s location, close enough to Dublin for a day trip but far enough to enjoy the peaceful countryside.

We dined one night at the hotel’s signature restaurant, Grill 21, where I enjoyed sea bass on a bed of leek and herb risotto; Peter opted for a steak served with a peppered Jameson whiskey sauce; Jasper loaded on the carbs with a pasta dish. Grill 21’s open kitchen ensured an atmospheric evening, one we found a relaxing antidote to a busy day of sightseeing.

County Meath is also home to golf, fishing, and numerous hiking and biking trails. Horse racing is also a tradition in Meath, home to the Irish Grand National. If you like to ride, check into opportunities at one of the local equestrian centers.

JOY AND WONDER

The Irish are known for their love affair with horses, so we decided to visit the Irish National Stud, a working stud farm located in County Kildare about a half hour west of Dublin on a beautiful estate known as Tully. This government-owned enterprise offers tours, during which you’ll learn about the high stakes of horse breeding. For example, the stud fee for Invincible Spirit, a prized stallion whose “crop” of foals and fillies is breaking racetrack records, is 50,000 euro.

Besides the breeding facilities, the attraction offers a horse museum and two gorgeous gardens. We loved walking through the Japanese Gardens at Tully, created in the early 1900s by a wealthy Scotsman. Meticulously planned, the gardens symbolize the life of man, and as you walk along the path, you experience the “journey of the soul from oblivion to enlightenment,” according to the website.

Peter, Jasper, and I entered the garden though the Gate of Oblivion and found ourselves in the Cave of Birth. Other stops on the path included the Hill of Learning, the Island of Joy and Wonder, the Marriage Bridge, the Well of Wisdom, and finally the Gateway to Eternity. The bucolic setting felt very spiritual to me, and I could have lingered longer in this serene place. It’s no wonder the Japanese Gardens at Tully have been described as among the finest Japanese gardens in Europe.

Just to the south is County Wicklow, a region known as the Garden of Ireland. Here nature lovers will find much to appreciate, including miles of hiking trails that wend their way through the Wicklow Mountains. Nestled in a valley in the heart of the mountain range is Glendalough, a must-see heritage site. In the 6th century, St. Kevin founded a monastery with a group of other monks on the banks of a river. Kevin’s fame as a holy man spread, and the settlement attracted many followers.

Today the ruins provide only a glimpse of what the monastery would have been like in its heyday with workshops, guesthouses, an infirmary, farm buildings, and dwellings to house both monks and the large lay population. After Kevin’s death in 618, the site remained a holy place and even today continues to attract pilgrims. Now visitors discover a haunting site where the ruins of a cathedral, a round tower, smaller churches, and the priest’s home remind us of a different time.

Gravestones are everywhere, and as Peter, Jasper, and I walked around, it was hard not to think about the vast gulf of years separating us from the simpler times of St. Kevin more than 1500 years ago. I wished we had time to follow some of the hiking trails that branch off from Glendalough, including one called St. Kevin’s Way that follows the route of the saint.

BEAUTIFUL VISTAS

Our stay in County Wicklow commenced at the Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt in Eniskerry, a stunning property with a neo-classic Palladian exterior and a Georgian-inspired interior. In a wooded setting next to Powerscourt House and Gardens, the hotel overlooks Sugar Loaf Mountain, a view I never tired of seeing from the balcony of our suite.

Of course, inside the décor was equally inviting. Our plush accommodations featured a spacious living area with comfy chairs, a settee, oversized desk and dining table, as well as a master bedroom with a kingly featherbed and a magnificently appointed bathroom with a TV mounted in the mirror. It was difficult to leave this lovely suite to continue our explorations, but we wanted to see nearby Powerscourt Gardens.

Described as one of the most beautiful country estates in Ireland, Powerscourt Estate covers over 1000 acres, on which tended gardens, terraces, fish ponds, statuary, and tree plantations undulate in all directions. Peter, Jasper, and I decided to skip the house tour and spend our time wandering the grounds, where we discovered beautiful vistas with every step.

Back at the Ritz-Carlton, I left Peter and Jasper to their own devices and headed for ESPA, where I would experience one of most amazing treatments of my life. Called the Garden of Inspiration Body Ritual, the treatment lasts 2 ½ hours, beginning with a cleansing foot ritual and a consultation with Glenda, my therapist. Next came a sensory test, which involved choosing my favorite from a variety of scented oil combinations. I chose Fitness Body Oil, which contains clove, rosemary and cinnamon, a good fit for me, Glenda said.

The second part of the treatment was a full body salt and oil scrub to increase circulation and remove dead skin cells. After I showered, Glenda poured warm oil over my body and then gave a very relaxing massage before applying cool marine mud to the body to help re-mineralize and hydrate the skin. Finally she applied a cool moisturizing balm to keep my skin smooth and hydrated. The overall effect of this treatment was both energizing and relaxing.

Besides the gorgeous spa, the Ritz-Carlton also features a stunning black marble heated lap pool inlaid with Swarovski crystals. Surrounding the pool are comfy lounges, where you can lose yourself in the mystical magic of the place. Another mystical experience awaits in the hammam, a circular steam room with a large crystal in the center which emits a stream of steam. Decorated in exotic tiles, the steam room is a place to let life’s stresses ooze out while peace and tranquility enter in.

The adventure continued that night when we dined at Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt. Anyone who watches the Food Network knows Gordon Ramsay is the tough-talking chef who terrorizes restaurant owners in the show “Hell’s Kitchen.” He wasn’t around the night we dined, but our server assured us he’s “not that bad” in real life. Well, you know what they say about geniuses, and judging from our meal, Gordon Ramsay is indeed that.

Peter and I had to convince Jasper, who’s a meat-and-potatoes fan, to partake in the evening’s Prestige Menu, a five-course journey into a selection of gourmet dishes that Jasper had never even dreamed of: foie gras mousse; roast scallop with caviar and lime foam; a crab cannelloni that Peter declared was the best dish he’d ever eaten; rack of lamb with braised belly and tomato couscous; and a trio of creamy sorbet for dessert. Service was extraordinary. In fact, when the waiter saw that Peter had nicked himself shaving, he presented a tray with antiseptic and two band-aids. By evening’s end, even Jasper admitted he was glad he’d ventured into unknown territory and sampled the culinary achievements of one of the world’s renowned chefs. It was truly a masterful meal.

Another recommended hotel in County Wicklow is the Marriott Druids Glenn in Newtownmountkennedy, where we stayed our last night. Located next to the Druids Glen Golf Resort, the hotel offers spacious accommodations, an indoor pool, health club, and spa. Golfers will enjoy its close proximity to championship courses, and kids will love the family-friendly amenities. But most of all, Druid Glen’s setting among lush rolling hills offers visitors the chance to enjoy a peaceful escape from the cares of daily life along with a perfect base from which to explore this beautiful region.

While Jasper chilled in the Marriott, Peter and I spent our final evening in Ireland at Taylor’s Three Rock, where we dined on a four-course meal while enjoying Irish music, dancers, and Noel V. Ginnity, a hilarious comedian whose antics and jokes kept the audience roaring with laughter. Located on the southern edge of Dublin, Taylor’s Three Rock does a great job of giving visitors a taste of authentic Irish cabaret in a cozy environment that resembles the inside of a thatched-roof cottage.

In fact, Peter decided the evening’s show was the highlight of his visit. As for me, choosing a favorite attraction in these three counties surrounding Dublin is too hard. I loved everything we did. Enjoying yourself in Ireland is easy, I think. There’s so much to see and do, and everywhere you go friendly folks welcome you with warm smiles. But make sure you venture off the beaten track—where the real Ireland lies waiting. n

For more information, visit:

www.meathtourism.ie

www.kildare.ie/tourism

www.visitwicklow.ie

www.heritageireland.ie

www.ritzcarlton.com

www.powerscourt.ie

www.irish-national-stud.ie

www.marriottashburne.com

www.marriott.ie/DUBGS

www.taylorsthreerock.ie