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Spice It Up with a Visit to
Grenada, the Spice Isle
By Peggy Sijswerda
As the sun dips down in a
tangerine sky, I drop my sandals under a sea grape tree and head to the shore
for a sunset stroll, a tropical rum punch my only companion. Before me Grand
Anse Beach, a brilliant white crescent on Grenada’s southwest coast, stretches
for three miles, bordered on one side by the Caribbean Sea, on the other by
small businesses, empty lots, and the occasional resort. Gorgeous any time of
day, Grand Anse Beach at sunset is a painting in motion, a changing panorama of
scenes, the colors swirling and subsiding like a forgotten dream.
To the north, surrounding the
lush green peaks of the Grand Etang Forest Preserve, clouds float like
ornaments. To the south, the sun slides down the sky amid a cascade of colors,
a waterfall in slow motion. On the edge of the horizon a catamaran gently
motors toward Grenada’s capital, St. George’s, whose horseshoe-shaped harbor
twinkles with lights from merry restaurants that promise the conviviality
sailors need after a long day on the water.
Around me the sea and sky
shimmer in the waning sunlight. Silver waves break on the beach, providing a
rhythmic beat, like the ticking of a cosmic clock winding down, counting the
minutes of my last day in Grenada, reminding me that tomorrow I will board a
plane and make the long journey home. I’m determined to milk this day, savor
every sensory experience I can.
The silky waters of the
Caribbean Sea wash over my feet as I walk along the shore. The clear water
beckons, but I’m not suited for a swim. Instead, I watch others bathe in the
calm seawater. Surprisingly the beach is full of people—a few tourists, like
me, but mostly native Grenadians, boys and girls playing soccer in the sand,
old women neck deep in the water, couples intertwined as the sun displays its
last burst of fireworks. A slow breeze rises up and ripples the water, ruffling
my hair. I smile at the sensual pleasure of the moment.
I turn around and walk toward
the place in the sky where the sun used to be. It’s gone now, having
surrendered to the dusk, leaving in its wake a peachy-green glow, a fading
memory of the day. The swimmers are shadows now, dark profiles edged against
the glimmering sea. Its surface reflecting the glow of the sky, the sea, like
me, seems to want to hold on to the final moments of the day as long as it can,
a last hurrah before it too will dim, and night will take over this small
corner of the Caribbean.
The scene around me is clear and
beautiful, and all at once I feel a kinship with this place. It’s as if I
finally understand what the magic is here, what the islanders mean when they
say they will never leave. Why would you when a world with this much splendor
waits outside your front door? Maybe I’ll go native, I think as I take another
swallow of my rum punch. I’ll sneak up into the hills during the night, get
lost in the rainforest, sleep under the nutmeg trees, and dream about a life of
enchantment here on the Spice Isle.
Dark descends quickly, and I
remember I still have to pack. I feel drained, as if I’ve been under a spell.
What’s in this drink? I wonder. It tastes of local rum, strong and flavorful,
complemented by tangy fruit juices and topped off by tiny bits of ground nutmeg
that echo in my mouth. But something else is at work here. It’s almost as if
this drink has sharpened my senses somehow, given me clarity and wisdom—not the
normal dulling effects you associate with a potent libation. It must be the
nutmeg. All I know is every rum punch I drink for the rest of my life will
contain this pungent spice—and remind me of my sunset stroll on Grenada’s Grand
Anse Beach.
UNPRETENTIOUS LUXURY
Grenada, a lush Caribbean island
just a hundred miles off the Venezuelan coast, is known worldwide for its spice
production. In fact, Grenada is home to more spice trees per square mile than
any other place in the world. From cinnamon to nutmeg, allspice to bay leaves,
the local vegetation fairly exudes an exotic aroma. Some say the spice industry
is the primary reason Grenada remains one of the most pristine Caribbean
countries. Thanks to the income generated by its spice harvests, Grenada hasn’t
sold its soul to the mega-resorts. Instead of wall-to-wall chain hotels
towering above the sea, here you’ll find cozy small to mid-sized properties
that emphasize a low-key, quality experience.
Located
on Grand Anse Beach, Spice Island Beach Resort, where I’m staying, is an elite
boutique property that’s arguably the nicest on the island. With 64 lavish
suites, the resort defines unpretentious luxury in a warm, friendly
environment. Add to that its Mediterranean ambience—gleaming white stucco
structures surrounded by colorful landscaped gardens—and you have a setting
that resembles paradise.
My suite features its own
private plunge pool, patio, and garden—perfect for couples or people like me
who relish privacy. Beachfront suites offer spacious patios and inviting
hammocks and are just steps away from the shore. All the accommodations at
Spice Island Beach Resort are custom furnished in classic Far East style—dark
woods, sleek lines, and understated elegance. Flat screen TV’s, Italian
porcelain tiles, and designer bathroom fixtures round out the stunning décor. I
find it hard to choose between hanging out in my peaceful suite or lounging
beside my plunge pool, so I take turns doing both. When I need a change of
scenery, I head to the beach for a swim and to work on my tan.
Spice Island Beach Resort is an
all-inclusive property and features two restaurants, both of which overlook the
Caribbean Sea. Olivier’s is a fine dining venue, where breakfast and dinner are
served, and the Sea and Surf Bar serves lunch and tea in the afternoon.
Breakfast offerings include fresh fruit, pastries, breads, and cooked-to-order
eggs, waffles, and pancakes (with nutmeg syrup, of course). For lunch, try a
fresh salad or a hearty sandwich. Dinner, an elegant affair with fine linen and
silver table settings, highlights creative island cuisine with an emphasis on
fresh-caught bounty from the sea. One unique local product you should try is
callaloo, a spinach-like vegetable rich in iron. It’s served in omelets, soups,
and steamed as a side dish. Some say callaloo is the secret to a long life. All
I know is I feel healthy every time I eat it!
The Grenadians without a doubt
are some of the world’s warmest, friendliest people. Having once been a British
colony, Grenada is an English-speaking country, and the islanders display the
exquisitely polite manners that the British are known for. Other British
influences are also evident: driving on the left side of the road, for example,
and a school system that mirrors the U.K.’s, including uniforms for
schoolchildren. Grenadians have a special affinity for Americans and remember
with great appreciation the U.S. “intervention” in 1983, when American troops
helped restore order after a coup attempt by a radical communist faction.
Two years ago Hurricane Ivan
roared across Grenada, damaging or destroying ninety percent of the structures
on the island. The tourism industry began to rebuild quickly, and many resort
properties, including Spice Island Beach Resort, were restored with numerous
improvements. In fact, the island’s mantra since Hurricane Ivan has been “Build
Back Better.” Today the beaches are beautiful once again, and in the mountains
nature is recovering nicely. The spice industry, particularly the nutmeg trees,
took a serious hit from Ivan, but experts are confident the harvests will soon
be back up to par. In the meantime, the island is expanding some of its other
crops, such as bananas and cocoa beans.
SWIRLING CURRENTS AND STUNNING
VIEWS
Grenada offers a variety of
adventurous activities to keep visitors busy. From hiking to snorkeling to
exploring the unique history and culture of the island, you won’t get bored
during your visit. Tour operators will arrange excursions from one end of the
island to the other and can customize a trip based on your interests.
Here’s
list of some must-do activities to enjoy when you visit Grenada:
• Take a dip in a waterfall.
Grenada’s most famous waterfalls are the Seven Sisters. We hiked to numbers
five and six, and while the trail was steep and slippery in parts (remember,
you’re in the rainforest), the stunning view at the end is worth the effort.
While you’re there, be sure and take a cool dip in the mineral-rich waters and
enjoy the sensual experience of being in what must surely be one of the
sweetest places on earth. If you’re lucky, a fearless islander will display his
bravado, scamper up the rocks, and dive from the top of the waterfall into the
pool below.
• Snorkle among the coral reefs.
Another world awaits under the sea, and the crystal clear waters of the
Caribbean offer the perfect setting for viewing tropical fish, colorful coral,
and unique sea life. Don’t forget your sunscreen!
• Visit a rum distillery.
Grenada’s rum is renowned for its smooth taste and unique vanilla, honey, and
spice flavors. One taste and you’ll understand!
• Tour a spice plantation. In
Grenada spices are dried in the sun the old-fashioned way—on wooden platforms,
where fresh air and the sun’s rays produce spices that some say are the world’s
finest.
• Visit the Grenada Chocolate
Factory – Nestled in a cozy neighborhood sits a cottage industry that produces
a chocolate to rival the finest in Europe. I recommend the dark chocolate with
71% cocoa. Like a sipping rum, this chocolate is meant to be savored in small
amounts.
• Ride an inner tube through the
jungle. Grenada’s newest adventure activity promises an exhilarating ride under
a tropical canopy amid the swirling currents of the river.
After
your adventures end, head back to the beach, find a soft spot in the sand, and
watch the sun slide down in a tangerine sky. Sip on a rum punch and savor the
intoxicating tastes—the sweet juicy flavors of orange, pineapple, lime, and
grenadine; smooth local rum with its unique earthy flavor; and finally the
secret ingredient, freshly grated nutmeg. Floating on top, it’s the first taste
to touch your tongue. Everything else filters through it.
A visit to Grenada reminds us to
spice it up. Just as a vacation helps us reconnect with the loveliness of life,
adding spice to our everyday existence gives us a reason to pause and savor the
flavors. Cheers!
Grenadian Rum Punch (serves 1)
1 oz lime
1 oz orange juice
1 oz pineapple juice
1 oz grenadine
2 oz light rum
3 or 4 ice cubes
grated nutmeg
Combine the juices, grenadine,
rum, and ice cubes in a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into a
small glass with ice. Sprinkle plenty of nutmeg to taste on top.
Recipe supplied by Grenada Board of Tourism
For more information about
visiting Grenada, go to www.grenadagrenandines.com
Places to Stay
• Spice Island Beach Resort -
www.spiceislandbeachresort.com
• Coyaba Beach Resort –
www.coyaba.com
• Blue Horizons Garden Resort –
www.grenadabluehorizons.com
• Morne Fendue Plantation -
www.travelgrenada.com/fendue.htm
• Almost Paradise Cottages -
www.almost-paradise-grenada.com
Places to Eat
• Olivier’s –
www.spiceislandbeachresort.com
• Laluna – www.laluna.com
• The Nutmeg – Overlooking St.
George’s harbor. Ph. 473-440-2539
What To Do
• Aquanauts Grenada – Located on
Grand Anse Beach, this tour operator offers snorkel and dive trips.
www.aquanautgrenada.com
• Henry’s Safari Tours –
www.spiceisle.com/safari
• Grenada Chocolate Factory –
www.grenadachocolate.com
• River Antoine Rum Distillery -
www.grenadaexplorer.com/tip/rumfactory/
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