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Phoenix: Find Your Pleasure
By Peggy Sijswerda
One morning I awakened just
before sunrise and pulled on my hiking boots. Half a mile from the resort where
I was staying, Pinnacle Peak rose up toward the heavens, and I couldn’t wait to
climb to the top. As the sky grew lighter in the east, I scurried across the
desert to the trailhead and began my climb, passing huge boulders and an
occasional suguaro cactus, shadowy forms along the trail. Just as I needed to
pause and catch my breath, the sun crested the horizon, and everything glowed
in a warm pink light.
The view was spectacular:
Phoenix to the west, Scottsdale to the south, and all around me suguaro cacti
and palo verde trees lent a soft green hue to the harsh landscape—harsh, that
is if you don’t count the million-dollar homes and lush golf courses that are
slowly but surely invading the desert.
I visited Phoenix and her sister
city, Scottsdale, last November to learn what all the fuss was about. As one of
the fastest-growing regions, the Phoenix metro area has a population of about
3.5 million. Census experts predict millions more will head to this haven in
the desert in the next two decades. So what’s the deal?
After a few days of pleasurable
research, the answer was clear. Phoenix has it all. Whether you’re looking for
an awesome place to while away a few days or a new location to enjoy your
retirement, you’ll find amazing amenities in the region, all adding up to a
quality of life that’s pure pleasure.
• Weather – You gotta love the
weather—at least for eight or nine months of the year. Except for summertime,
when the sun glares down and temps regularly peak in the 100s, the climate the
rest of the year is heavenly. Cobalt blue skies, warm sun, and low humidity
provide the perfect setting for your favorite pursuits.
• Outdoor Recreation – There are
tons of things to do outdoors, and, judging from the healthy folks I saw on
Pinnacle Peak, all this outdoor activity is a good way to stay fit and trim.
Besides hiking on various trails in the region, horseback riding is a popular
pastime. One lovely morning I saddled up a palomino named Yellow Jacket at Koli
Equestrian Center near Wild Horse Pass and joined Jeffrey, my trail guide, and
Sue, a more experienced rider from Britain. After we ambled a while, Sue wanted
to canter, and Jeffrey asked me if I was up for it. “Sure,” I said. Next thing
I knew Yellow Jacket bolted after Sue’s horse, Lobo. I grabbed the saddle horn
and held on tight. A few bone-wrenching bounces later, I decided I wasn’t cut
out to be a cowgirl. “Whoa!” I shouted. The palomino slowed to a stroll as
Jeffery trotted up and said, “Mebbe we’ll just walk for a while.” I smiled
gratefully. Riding on the range in slow motion was just my speed.
• Spa – The Phoenix area must
have invented destinations spas—or at least perfected them. Some of the world’s
most divine spas are sprinkled among the red rock mountains and offer more than
just relaxing spa treatments. They offer an escape from reality. Willow Stream
at Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, for example, invites you to “find your energy”
at its 44,000 square foot facility, which features a private rooftop oasis
pool. After my “East Meets West” stone massage, I couldn’t wait to sit under
the waterfall that flows down from the pool. Time stopped while the warm
currents cascaded over my shoulders, washing away my worries. When I left
Willow Stream, I felt relaxed and energized at the same time.
• Shopping – What better state
to begin a shopping expedition? And Phoenix has shopping venues for all tastes
and budgets. If you’re seeking authentic Southwestern art and unique boutiques,
head to Downtown Scottsdale, a cozy neighborhood with over 400 galleries and
shops. Other options include Biltmore Fashion Park and Desert Ridge Marketplace
in Phoenix. Or for those who love to bargain, visit one of the area’s flea
markets, known in the Southwest as Swap Meets. Along with a few good deals,
you’ll find colorful characters ready to share a story or two.
• Golf – While I’ve never
golfed—unless you count putt-putt, that is—I was tempted to pick up a club and
swing in Phoenix. The metro area features 200+ courses, earning it the title
“Golf Capital of the World,” according to the National Golf Federation. While
greens fees can be steep, those in the know golf in summer in the early morning
hours and enjoy fabulous golf for a reasonable price.
• Cuisine – It should come as no
surprise that an area as alluring as Phoenix is also home to world-class dining
establishments. For example, Wright’s at the Biltmore offers “handcrafted”
American lodge cuisine in a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired atmosphere. During my
visit I ordered the tasting menu, an sublime five-course meal that began with
lobster and truffle corn soup that dazzled my taste buds. Next I relished
flavorful smoked beef carpacio, followed by a delicate salad of mizuna and
tomato marmalade. The main course was a prime New York loin encrusted in
pepper, served rare and juicy. A chocolate macadamia tort, smooth and silky,
provided the perfect finish. After dinner, I strolled through the grounds of
the legendary Arizona Biltmore, a majestic masterpiece designed by a student of
Frank Lloyd Wright.
Another evening I dined at Kai,
a five-diamond restaurant at the Sheraton Wild Horse Pass. An elegant room with
soft light, taupe tones, and minimalist decor set the stage for an amazing meal
I’ll never forget. The tasting menu offered creative combinations of familiar
foods and traditional Native American ingredients. Peeky-toe crab with grilled
papaya relish began the meal and a fire-roasted corn brulée took the final bow.
Everything in between was a culinary work of art—both in the presentation and
flavor. Besides the inspiring food and the elegant surroundings, the service at
Kai was unequalled—from the Pima greeting the waiter welcomed me with to the
story he told based on the original watercolor painting that graced the menu.
Such an over-the-top dining experience is worth indulging in at least once in
your life.
• Arts – Phoenix has more than
its fair share of arts offerings. From acclaimed art museums to theater and performing
arts, you’ll find plenty to keep you entertained. I recommend a visit to
Taliesin West to see Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter “camp,” which also serves as a
campus of his architectural school. Pam, our tour guide, said that Mr. Wright
designed the buildings to take advantage of nature’s beauty. “He thought it was
important to live with beauty,” she explained. As I wandered around Taliesin
West, I gained a new respect for this much-maligned genius, whose work remains
groundbreaking.
• Culture – Phoenix’s world-famous
Heard Museum showcases Native American art and history. The katsina dolls, a
mesmerizing collection of brightly painted wooden figures portraying spiritual
messengers are a must-see. Another cultural attraction is Rawhide at Wild Horse
Pass, an authentic Western frontier town that invites visitors to see the Wild
West come to life—perfect for families.
• Destination Resorts – Ever
since The Arizona Biltmore opened in 1929, this region has been known for its
over-the-top resorts. In fact, you’ll be hard pressed to find such a
concentration of luxurious resorts anywhere. My favorites are Arizona Biltmore;
Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale, in a secluded spot beside Pinnacle Peak;
Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, perfect for families and golfers; Hotel Valley
Ho, popular with visiting Hollywood types; and finally Sheraton Wild Horse
Pass, located on the Gila River reservation and steeped in Indian culture. The
resort even has a cultural concierge, Ginger Sunbird Martin, who highlights the
history of the Pima and Maricopa tribes during property tours for guests.
In autumn, the Sheraton Wild
Horse Pass offers Native American storytelling. One evening Tim Terry, a member
of the Gila River community, shared songs and stories around a crackling fire
as the sun dipped behind the distant mountain range. My favorite was a tale
about Baby Cloud, who tended to wander off from Mama and Papa Cloud. One day a
mean mountain captured Baby Cloud and wouldn’t let him go until he promised not
to wander off again.
I can’t imagine why Baby Cloud
left in the first place.
For more information:
• www.visitphoenix.com
• www.experiencescottsdale.com
• www.wildhorsepassresort.com
• www.willowstream.com
• www.fairmont.com
• www.fourseasons.com
• www.hotelvalleyho.com
• www.arizonabiltmore.com
Peggy Sijswerda, MFA, is editor
of Tidewater Women and lives in Virginia Beach.
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